The DNIN8K Digital Output duinoNode Kit is an easy to assemble electronics kit that can be completed in about 30 minutes.
You will need
- A soldering iron with a small pointed or chiseled tip. Use a low wattage standard iron, or a temperature adjustable soldering station, such as a Hakko FX888.
- Low temperature, rosin core, lead free solder suitable for electronics. Example
- A flush cutting wire cutter. Example
- Self-closing (or cross lock) tweezers. Example
- Alcohol for cleaning soldering residues; denatured alcohol is the most effective, but common isopropyl alcohol will do.
- A chip insertion tool, if you have one.
Take a moment to unpack your kit and inspect the contents. Your kit should contain the following parts:
- 1 x DNIN8.100 PC Board
- 3 x 3 port terminal block, 3.5mm pitch
- 2 x 3 port terminal blocks, 2.54mm pitch
- 1 x 2 port terminal blocks, 5.08mm pitch
- 1 x CD4021BE IC, 16-DIP
- 1 x 1N5817 Diode
- 8 x Resistors, 10kΩ,
- 1x Resistors, 2kΩ
- 1 x LED, Green
You may substitute pin headers of the same pitch (pin spacing) for terminal blocks. The current draw of the board is low enough that it can be powered from the +5v terminal on the LCOS Node (or any Arduino board). Otherwise it requires a 5 volt power source and the ground must be tied to both the power supply ground the microcontroller ground.
General Instructions & Precautions
- The IC is a static sensitive device. Work in a low static environment if possible. Make sure to ground yourself while handling the IC and the board.
- Work with adequate light and ventilation. Avoid breathing fumes produced by the soldering process. Use adequate protective eye-wear and burn resistant clothing. Use a soldering pad to protect your table/desk.
- Use a secure holding device to hold the PC Board while you insert and solder parts. Use self-closing (cross lock) tweezers, or other holding device, to secure parts while soldering.
- Low temperature soldering works best with a “wet” tip. Clean the hot tip with a wet sponge and metal cleaning mesh. Put a little solder on the tip of the iron (just enough to make it “wet” — wipe off any excess), touch the wet part of the iron to the part, then apply enough solder to cover the pad, fill the hole and create a gentle slopped joint. Keeping the tip wet, move from pad to pad applying solder as you go. The iron should touch the part no more than 3 – 5 seconds. If something goes wrong, remove the iron and let the parts cool for a minute before trying again.
- Sometimes with very thin rosin core solder wire there are tiny sections where rosin is missing or inadequate. You’ll know you’ve hit that when the solder melts but refuses to flow onto the board and tends to ball up. You’ll need to remove the failed solder from the board & part, then try clipping a few millimeters off the solder wire; usually that will get past that bad core and restore normal soldering.
Secure the board with a PC Board holder or other method.
Before beginning assembly, take note of the polarity/orientation marks on the board:
Insert the CD4021BE IC into the holes where shown. Note the orientation of the Pin 1 mark on the case.
If you do not have a chip insertion tool, insert the pins on one side of the IC into the corresponding holes. Then, using your fingers to press on the case/pins on the opposite side, put just enough pressure on the IC to flex without damaging the inserted pins and insert the opposite row into their respective holes. Use cross lock tweezers to hold the chip tightly against the board.
Turn the board upside down and solder 16 pins.
Next, insert and solder the diode. The cathode of the diode is marked with a band, and should be oriented with the cathode mark on the board.
Now insert and solder the LED and the 2kΩ resistor. The long lead of an LED is the anode — insert it into the hole with anode mark shown below. The 2k resistor goes in “R1” adjacent to the LED. Bend the leads on the bottom of the board to hold the parts in place while soldering. Flush cut the excess leads after soldering.
Next, insert and solder the 8 pull-down resistors, bending the leads on the bottom of the board to hold them in place. Its easiest to do the rows separately.
Solder the resistors, then flush cut the excess leads.
Now do the second row.
The last parts to install are the terminal blocks. These are “rising cage” terminal blocks, providing superior wire hold across a range of wire gauges. Before installing the blocks, inspect them and use a screw driver to lower the cage (turning the screw to the left) and fully open the terminals. Note that the terminals may be shipped by the manufacturer in a “closed” state which looks “open” because the cage is at the top of its travel without any wire.
The 3 x 3 port, 3.5mm pitch terminal blocks are put together to create a 9 port terminal block, using the dovetail joints built into the blocks. Each block has a long dovetail pin on one side, and a dovetail slot on the other.
Insert and solder the 9 port terminal block you’ve just assembled.
insert the 2.54mm pitch 3 port terminal blocks on the other end and solder in place. If you prefer, you can replace any 3 port terminal block with a pin header using the same pitch: 2.54mm/.1″.
Solder in the 2 port, 5.08mm pitch terminal block. Clean any solder flux residues with alcohol, and you are done!
For instructions on using the assembled boards, see DNIN8K Instructions.